some of my favorite flies and how to tie them
The PPL (Pat's ParaLoop)- Green Drake version
(NOTE you need a wing gallows to construct this pattern )
Hook: Partridge 15BN Kilinkhammer or Daiichi 1167 Klinkhammer (on size 14 and smaller patterns TMC 212TR)
Tail: Moose Mane 4 to 6 hairs
Body: Olive or Light Olive Turkey Biot
Hackle Post: Kevlar or 06 Waxed Mono Thread
Thorax: Olive Fine Dubbing
Hackle: Grizzly dyed Dun or Olive Rooster Saddle Hackle
I I ksddks
This pattern is current evolution of some early Klinkhammer style patterns that I had been using to great success with clients. I came across Ian Moutters book "Tying Flies The Paraloop Way" and applied the technique to some of my Klinkhammer patterns. It provided me with a great profile pattern the work very well in streams and lakes.
I love the way this fly floats in the surface film. It sits nice and low, but has a great profile that is easy to see and to me has a very natural look to it. It has that natural look on the water gives it the appearance of a just emerged Mayfly fluttering it's wings for the first time. It has been by far the best producer as a dry I have fished in years. If you ever have the opportunity to fish the Green Drake hatch anywhere, be sure to have lots of these with you.
This is a Para-Loop style fly (sometimes called "Stacked Hackle"), so you will need to use some sort of gallows device to help (at least it is easier for me that way). I have used this pattern everywhere in Colorado with good results and is my go to dry in the summer, on the "Pan". I have also use with success in many many other locations across the western states. I also tie the pattern in different sizes and colors to cover pretty much the whole range of the Mayfly patterns I use. From Blue Wing Olives to PMD's.
The instructions for the fly are for the Green Drake, others have slightly different hooks (Mainly and currently TMC 212TR's) and there is some variation on the tail material.
Step 1: Start thread at he 50% point and work it back to a point just behind the barb. Stack a group of 8 to 10 Moose hairs. Tie in Moose for your tail, don't trim it yet. Tail length should be just short of the shank length. Use the thread and moose to help build up a tapered body, wrap the thread over the moose to about the 60% point. Now fold the moose back and wrap over it to the 40% point. Trim the moose and cover it with thread. Now return thread to the starting point.
Step 2: Tie in the the tip of the 2 biots, and wrap thread forward to just over the ½ point. Wrap the biots forward tray to keep the curved side up, to create the body. The two biots will have a tendency to slide apart, that is OK , warp them side by side and secure at the 60% point. This will give the fly that nice biot segmented body. Tie off well and clip excess.
Step 3: You can do a few things here. Tie in the Kevlar thread in a large loop, long enough to just reach the gallows clip, so the clip will keep tension on it. Connect the loop to the to the gallows. This will become a post that we wrap the hackle around. Or your can make the post with your tying thread, to make the loop strong enough make 2 or 3 loops to the gallows clip.
Step 4: Tie in Hackle, . Wrap hackle UP the thread post about 4 or 5 times, then back down to the hook and secure to create a stacked parachute. The height should be the same length at the thorax, or that same length as the 60% to 90%. Now secure it at the base of the para-loop. Now dub the thorax heavily, from the front of the thread loop to just short of the eye, make sure you leave room behind the eye to tye a good head
Step 5: Remove the loop-post from the gallows and fold it forward over the top of the thorax and secure just behind the eye with a couple of wraps. Grab the thread loop and pull it forward to insure the top of the hackle is down on the top of the hook shank. Now throw in a couple more wraps forward on the "post" thread then fold the post thread back and wrap back over it. This will help lock the para-loop down better.
Step 6: Trim and whip finish. Fish this fly during any Green Drake hatch or where GD's are common. It being a comparidun type pattern means that in faster water you will need to treat is more often. Enjoy!!